Sunday, 3 November 2019

3rd Nov SUN: Wagah Border Ceremony

This ceremony takes place every evening immediately before sunset at the Wagah-Attari border, which used to be the only road link between Pakistan and |India.

There are large stadiums built on both sides of the border gates, but the one on the Indian side is biggest.   An hour before the ceremony starts the crowds on both sides are wound up by 'animators' and each side tries to outshout the other … on the Indian side there is loud music and a large group of women and children run round with Indian flags.  

On the Pakistan side the entertainment seemed mostly to be a one-legged man spinning like a top whilst hoisting the national flag it was quite spectacular I must admit.

There follows a blustering parade by the soldiers from both sides trying to outdo each other with 'funny walks'  and ends up in the perfectly coordinated lowering of the two nations' flags before the closing of the gates.

It is called the 'Beating Retreat' border ceremony


Approaching the Border Gates


Earlier .. on the Indian side of the border


ladies and kids running and dancing with the India flag - accompanied by rebel rousing patriotic music






Indian soldiers:




Waiting for their turn to perform


Its all about bluster, exaggerated arm/leg movements and fierce scowls




The higher they kicked, the louder the cheers






lowering of the flag on India side, perfectly timed with lowering of the Pakistan flag




and on the Pakistan side


the one-legged whirling dervish on the Pakistan side - he walked onto the parade ground and then threw his crutch on the grass and span in circles for nigh on 30 minutes to great acclaim from the crowd.




As the Indian soldiers finished for the night and the crowds started to disperse, the Pakistani side was still going strong .....


I made a mistake with our seating.   I'd read it was better to avoid the 'chair' area in the 'foreigner/visitors' section in favour of standing near the barriers as that afforded a better view.    However the Indian soldiers/police were vigilant in making everybody sit down … so I struggled to get decent shots of the main event when the flags were lowered.    I'll check my videos later as they may be better.




2 comments:

  1. Interesting ceremony and very interesting uniforms.

    ReplyDelete
  2. The atmosphere was amazing di, the audience on each side trying to outdo each other in chanting/shouting ... We loved it

    ReplyDelete

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